May 28th, 2010
Mark Caldwell with his culinary creations paired with J wines.
When J Vineyards & Winery opened its tasting room in 1999, they were the first Russian River Valley winery to offer exquisite plates of food perfectly paired to its wines. Since joining J in 2003, Executive Chef Mark E. Caldwell has elevated its food and wine pairing program to an even higher, more sophisticated level.
Given that the Bay Area has an abundance of fresh, locally-grown produce and artisan food products available, Mark passionately changes his menus regularly to showcase seasonal foods. Some of Caldwell’s favorite dishes paired with J wines have included Dungeness Crab with Curry Crème Fraîche atop a Green Onion Basmati Rice Cake paired with Russian River Valley Pinot Gris, Braised Painted Hills Beef Short Ribs with a Coffee and Pinot Noir Reduction topped with a Horseradish Cream matched with a Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, and Saigon Pumpkin Pottage with Pork, Chicken and Shrimp paired with a crisp Russian River Valley Chardonnay.
At an early age, Mark knew he was destined to become a chef. His dad volunteered to manage the cooking and catering for his family’s local church in Cupertino, California, while Mark found himself in the kitchen helping his mom make meals for the family. As the eighth of 10 children, feeding the family was like catering a small dinner party so his mom always appreciated the extra hands—no matter how small. Mark soon moved from the family kitchen and into restaurants around Northern California.
Mark enrolled in San Francisco’s California Culinary Academy and graduated in 2001. At the CCA, he was most inspired by a food and wine pairing class taught by Jerry Comfort, Beringer Winery’s gourmet chef and culinary director. Mark became fascinated with how wine changed food and food changed wine in complementary fashions, discovering it’s a science and an art form. Fresh from graduation, he accepted an externship with Chateau Souverain in Geyserville as the kitchen’s Garde Manager until April 2003.
Mark claims to have the best job at J Vineyards & Winery. He loves having an outlet that allows for delicious, creative expression, the challenge of discovering new flavor combinations to pair with J’s wines, and he loves watching someone take a bite out of his food and a sip of wine and then smile—the ultimate satisfaction for a chef.
Pan Seared Five Spice Muscovy Duck Breast with Wasabi Mashed Potatoes and Roasted Brussels Sprouts
Recipe courtesy of Executive Chef Mark E. Caldwell, J Vineyards & Winery
Pinot Noir Reduction
1½ cups J Vineyards Russian River Valley Pinot Noir¾ cup Shallots, chopped coarse
3 sprigs Flat Leaf Parsley
3 sprigs Thyme
2 cloves Garlic, crushed
1 cup Chicken Stock
2 cups Veal Stock
½ pound Whole Butter cubed
2-3 Star Anise (whole)
Salt and Pepper to taste
In a saucepan over medium high heat reduce chicken and veal stock to 1 cup.
In a separate saucepan combine wine, star anise, shallots, thyme, parsley and garlic over medium high heat bring to a simmer and reduce to ¼ cup. Strain liquid through a chinois into reduced stocks. Turn heat to low and whisk in cubed butter. Adjust salt and pepper to desired taste.
Duck Breasts
2 Muscovy Duck Breasts, boneless ( 12-14 ounces each)
¼ cup Five Spice powder
Salt and Pepper to taste
Using paper towels pat dry the duck. Take a sharp knife and score the skin on each breast in a crosshatch pattern being careful not to cut into the meat. Then season with salt, pepper and five spice powder, and rub the spices into the breasts and coating the skin well. Let the duck sit for thirty minutes. Preheat oven to 350°.
Place a heavy skillet over high heat. It is not necessary to add oil or butter as the duck skin will render fat when cooking. When skillet is hot, place duck skin side down and cook for 2-3 minutes then flip duck over and cook another 2-3 minutes. Remove from stove drain fat from pan and place in the oven for 13-20 minutes checking the center of the breast with a thermometer to read 135° for medium rare, 140° for medium.
Oven Roasted Brussels Sprouts
20. Brussels Sprouts, trimmed and halved
As needed Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Salt and Pepper to taste
Preheat oven to 350°. Place Brussels sprouts in a bowl and toss with olive oil. Place on a sheet pan and sprinkle with salt and pepper to desired taste. Bake for 15-20 minutes or until tender when pierced with a knife.
Wasabi Mashed Potatoes
2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes (peeled and quartered)
½ cup Heavy Cream
¼ cup Butter
Wasabi Powder Amount will vary depending on desired strength (mix equal parts with water)
Salt and White Pepper to taste
Place potatoes in stockpot, fill with cold water to cover potatoes and add a pinch of salt. Bring pot to a boil and cook until tender about 10-15 minutes. Drain, then mash or use a food mill, then add cream, butter, Wasabi and salt and pepper to taste, mixing well. Keep Warm.
Link to story on Inside Sonoma: http://inside-sonoma.com/chef-mark-caldwell-from-j-and-his-five-spiced-duck-and-wasabi-mashed-potatoes-recipe/
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