The vibe: Sleek, artful, and very much about good bubbles with food: On weekends, spring for the sit-down pairing ($60) in the Bubble Room, for inspired food like the "BLT"―foie gras, applewood-smoked bacon, heirloom tomato, and mâche on toast points with the J Brut Rosé. Sips to try: J "Cuvée 20" Brut, J Pinot Gris, and J Robert Thomas Vineyard Pinot Noir.
Extras: Stellar still wines along with the sparklers. $20 tasting fee (5-wine pour); 707/431-3646.
Runners-up: Dunham Cellars, Walla Walla, WA; Robert Sinskey, Napa Valley; Press Club, San Francisco.